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Quei fantastici 4

Oggi voglio lasciar scorrere la mia penna scrivendo di un gruppetto di soldati nigeriani.
Sono entrato in contatto con loro nella mia recente esperienza nello stato più popolato e più ricco di risorse del continente africano. La Nigeria, per l’appunto.
Come esploratore d’esperienze, ho avuto il piacere di passare un mese a stretto contatto con questi 4 personaggi.

Babafemi, Shitu, Bala e Lawan, rispettivamente Sergent, 2nd Commandant e Privates.
Ma cominciamo dal principio, sono atterrato il 17 febbraio a Port Harcourt nel River state, città situata nella zona ove il fiume Niger sfocia nel golfo di Guinea. Ci troviamo più o meno sul decimo parallelo, 90% d’umidità e 35 gradi centigradi di temperatura.

 

– L’ARRIVO

 

Appena atterrati l’impatto sul corpo è immediato.
Non facciamo in tempo a metterci in fila per i sistemi di controllo aeroportuali sgangherati, che veniamo subito intercettati da un uomo in abiti civili; ci preleva, facendoci superare la lunga fila di mazzette che ci saremmo dovuti trovare a pagare per poter entrare nel grande stato della Nigeria.

“Lavorano per il Presidente!”, continua a dichiarare il civile armato di pistola ad ogni ufficiale dell’immigrazione, mostrando in contemporanea un tesserino che ci avrebbe aperto ogni porta. Usciti dal piccolo capannone con tetto in lamiera, anche chiamato in nigeriano aeroporto, entriamo in un area riservata.
Il buio avvolge l’edificio e tutte le auto governative del suo parcheggio. Veniamo a sapere che l’omino con pistola fa parte della scorta della First Lady. Egli ci presenta subito i
“fantastici 4”, la nostra scorta personale 24h su 24h.

Il nostro convoglio é composto da due mezzi, un pulmino bianco 12 posti ed un pick-up ammaccato con la scritta:
“Operation J.T.F Pula Shield”, sulle fiancate. Era il nome della missione per la quale questi 4 uomini erano stati ingaggiati.

Si trattava di un’operazione per la messa in sicurezza dell’intera zona di Yenegoa e limitrofi. Vi sono zone in Nigeria in cui la presenza di ribelli e di conseguenza di rapimenti ed uccisioni é ancora molto alta. I fantastici si presentano e si parte quasi immediatamente, se non fosse che dobbiamo spingere il pulmino a causa della batteria scarica! Sono le 10 di sera, il convoglio é sulla strada che ci divide dal nostro primo check-point.

L’obiettivo è raggiungere l’hotel dove passeremo la notte.

Non ci portano direttamente a Yenegoa, la strada é lunga e non si fidano a scorrazzarci al buio per le campagne nigeriane.

In strada da nemmeno 15 minuti e il pulmino si ferma!

Normale routine, manca la benzina! Lawan, che scopriremo in seguito essere il più “rilassato” del gruppo, esce dal pick-up, taglia una bottiglietta e la usa come imbuto per la benzina comprata a lato strada in pratiche bottiglie per l’acqua.
Si può ripartire ad alta velocità su quelle che dovrebbero essere strade ad alto scorrimento: 4 frecce sempre lampeggianti e clacson ad intermittenza in continuazione! Bala, soldato per vocazione, seduto al fianco del driver, continua ad agitare una barra metallica dal finestrino colpendo violentemente e senza preoccupazione ogni auto che si mette tra noi e il suo obiettivo.

Arriviamo all’hotel, “mission accomplished”!

Dopo 16 ore di viaggio e tre voli possiamo coricarci e prendere sonno.
Ore 09.00 del mattino, “operativi!” ci era stato detto, ma da tempistiche nigeriane l’entourage si presenta solo alle 13.00.

Si parte, direzione “Aridolf Hotel and Wellness SPA”. Aridolf

Lungo la strada e grazie alla luce del giorno, abbiamo potuto meglio renderci conto della situazione: flora rigogliosa e colori vividi accompagnano povertà estrema e tentativi di stare al passo con il ventunesimo secolo!

Baraccopoli e fogne a cielo aperto costeggiano i banconi in legno delle macellerie improvvisate sulle strade.
Man mano che ci avviciniamo allo stato di Bayelsa gli imbuti stradali dovuti ai controlli armati, si fanno sempre più frequenti.

 

Ad ogni rallentamento decine di persone tra donne e bambini affiancano le auto nel tentativo di sopravvivere, vendendoci beni di ogni sorta!
Acqua, frutta ma anche ca
Stradelzini, orologi da parete e sorrisi supplicanti. Dovrei andare in bagno esclama un “Oibo” dalla terza fila del pulmino!

Gli Oibo siamo noi uomini bianchi, o pecore nere in questo caso. Il convoglio accosta a lato della strada. Scendiamo tutti quanti, i soldati escono dal pick-up in formazione.

Il sergente, in ciabatte, canottiera e pantaloni mimetici, estrae una bottiglia.

 

Sono le due del pomeriggio, ed in formazione, i militari in servizio tracannano “shortini” di whisky.

Volete?! – Domandano – e noi Oibo non rifiutiamo, in qualche modo dobbiamo mandar giù questa assurda situazione!
Dopo due ore di guida e “turbolenze” stradali, arriviamo sani ma storditi a destinazione.

 

– LA ROUTINE

 

Il complesso è composto da tre strutture, l’hotel, il tearo ed il futuro centro benessere ancora in costruione.

Le stanze danno sulla strada principale, Isaac Adaka Boro Expy Road, una delle poche asfaltate. Noi alloggiamo all’ultimo piano, due appartamenti con vista fogne e pozzi petroliferi in fiamme all’orizzonte la sera.

Ma all’alba lo spettacolo cambia, una leggera nebbiolina carica di freschezza avvolge la moltitudine di palme che fanno da cornice al sole tiepido e sfumato nelle tonalità del giallo e dell’arancione.

Il quadro 4D mattutino é accompagnato sonoricamente dai canti africani di donne nigeriane4D ed olfattivamente dall’odore di banane cotte alla brace agli angoli delle strade.

Dal viale principale si diramano viuzze sterrate colme di strutture di ogni tipo, dalla casupola in legno alle case popolari fornite dallo stato ai più fortunati.

Ogni stradina pullula di attività commerciali e non, ognuno si arrangia meglio che può.
Tra buche e chiazze d’asfalto, l’immondizia é un must.

In tutti i miei viaggi, una delle cose che ho sempre trovato come metro di paragone, in quanto segno di povertà, era la noncuranza per l’ambiente. Ed i centri popolati nigeriani in questo non invidiano niente a nessuno.

Nonostante ciò, uomini ed immondizia hanno trovato una sorta di tacita convivenza.

Al contrario delle strade invece, le autovetture vengono lavate e lucidate costantemente. Molto spesso gli autolavaggi sono posti accanto ai locali, bar e club. In questa maniera il proprietario del mezzo ha la possibilità di esibire il proprio status sociale a chiunque.
MAterasso

La cittadina di Yenegoa conta all’incirca 353,344 abitanti, ovviamente stiamo parlando di quelli dichiarati.
Qualsiasi cosa é “appesa” in maniera da darle la massima visibilità: indumenti, materassi spessi e colorati, alimenti e talvolta anche cani. Si, c’è stata un’occasione in cui ad un palo, lato strada, vi fossero appesi dei cani. Del resto non mi potevo meravigliare, nemmeno due settimane prima della mia partenza lessi di una notizia curiosa:

in una regione del nord della Nigeria avevano appena fatto chiudere un ristorante che serviva carne umana!

Rituali cannibali sono presenti in alcune tribù come atti tradizionali, ma una vera e propria forma di commercializzazione, questa era nuova anche alle forze dell’ordine nigeriane.

 

Ma veniamo a noi.

Le nostre giornate erano scandite da ritmi serrati.

Sveglia alle sei di mattina. Una breve sciacquata di muso e fuori dalla stanza, percorrendo il corridoio che ci separava dall’appartamento principale ove avremmo consumato il nostro rancio. Non posso tralasciare che, affisso nel corridoio ogni giorno, c’era il quadro in 4D di cui vi ho accennato!

Colori, odori e canti accompagnavano il nostro risveglio per una trentina di metri!
“Colin…Coffeeeee!!!”

Era l’esclamazione che un mio collega usava per dare lo start alla nostra giornata. Chi era Colin!? Il nostro “semi-cuoco”.

Un ragazzo ventiquattrenne di Port Harcourt, spedito sul delta del ColinNiger a cucinare esclusivamente per noi, spaparanzarsi sul divano e guardare la TV.

Può sembrare strano, ma credetemi, la situazione era strana!
Resta il fatto che ancora assonnati ci si infilava qualcosa nello stomaco, una tazza di caffè rigorosamente della moka portata dalla madre patria e via verso il cantiere!
Inizio ore sette, il sole era ancora basso, l’afa ed il caldo non ancora erano saliti. Questo vuol dire che per le prime due, tre ore si riusciva quasi quasi a non accorgersi di essere in Nigeria! La radio mandava musica caricata dalla nostra chiavetta usb ed il cantiere non era tanto diverso da uno europeo.

Si realizzava di essere in Africa solamente verso le 11, quando la temperatura arrivava a toccare i 35 gradi e le magliette iniziavano ad inzupparsi di sudore.
Ore 12.00, scortati dal soldato di corvée ripiegavamo per mangiare!
A giorni alterni, si trattava sempre di pasta o riso, con l’aggiunta di carne o pesce per i “normali”.

Per il sottoscritto, invece, sempre il medesimo condimento, vista la mia malattia vegetariana!
Il companatico consisteva nelle solite carote, patate e peperoni. Fortunatamente la salsa di soya era arrivata fino a qui.

I vegetali non hanno esattamente il loro sapore pieno come quelli italiani.
“Colin…Coffeeee!!!”, questa volta l’esortazione era pronunciata alla fine del pasto, ma la funzione rimaneva sostanzialmente la stessa: ricordarci la routine tricolore!

Appena il tempo di lavarsi i denti per alcuni, fumare la cicca per altri e l’ora di pausa pranzo era terminata, si tornava al lavoro. Alle 13.00 il sole picchiava leggermente di più, e dover salire a tre metri d’altezza sotto tetti in lamiera con un peso in più sullo stomaco era più arduo che mai.

Letteralmente i liquidi che si perdevano attraverso il sudore si aggiravano sul litro, litro e mezzo.

RancioI nostri protettori ci tenevano sotto controllo con un solo occhio, l’altro era intento ad addormentarsi o altrimenti fissava il rancio per poi finirlo in un sol boccone.

L’alternativa era la preghiera pomeridiana o la lavatrice, improvvisata in un barile, per ridare una qualche forma di rispettabilità alle, seppur spaiate, colorazioni delle loro uniformi. Esse infatti erano impregnate di polveri di cantiere miste a sudore.
Tra musica e battute si arrivava alle sei del pomeriggio, ora di posare gli attrezzi e tornare nei propri alloggi.
Prima di cenare si aveva il tempo di farsi una doccia e di bere una birra fresca ammirando il paesaggio dal nostro avamposto italiano al quarto piano dell’Aridolf.

Gli argomenti di conversazione erano tanti ma alla fine si arrivava sempre al più gettonato: la dicotomia Italia-Nigeria.

Pro e contro, aspetti negativi e positivi di entrambi i paesi e delle rispettive culture. Fortunatamente la sera era Colin a pronunciarsi: “Proontoooo”. In questo modo le discussioni non arrivavano mai ad una conclusione. Perché, in verità, nonostante la nostra voglia di tornare in Italia ed alle nostre abitudini, un verdetto definitivo non riuscivamo mai a darlo.
La cena era ovviamente la ripetizione del pranzo, dello stesso giorno, e del giorno prima e di quello prima ancora. Con la piccola differenza che il “Coffeeee” finale lo si correggeva con il whisky. Sigaretta e due chiacchiere.

Poi, alla “spicciolata”, ognuno di noi si coricava nei propri letti lasciandosi andare a Morfeo o a quello che i canali televisivi nigeriani proponevano.
L’Mtv africana, i match calcistici internazionali oppure le soap opera nigeriane dalla pessima recitazione. Ecco illustrata la giornata tipo di questa avventura. Ovviamente ci sono stati anche dei fuori programma, ma quelli sono tutti oggetto di un altro capitolo.

 

– CONOSCIAMOCI

 

Veniamo ai nostri “fantastici”. Come vi ho detto, eravamo scortati notte e giorno da 4 AK47, detti Kalashnikov, il fucile russo più famoso del mondo! Ah dimenticavo, ed anche dai 4 soldati che li avevano in dotazione. In Nigeria diventare militari é una delle massime aspirazioni. Essi godono di un rispetto che nessun’altra figura istituzionale può vantare. L’aurea che attornia la divisa mimetica é elitaria. Tanto é vero che non é permesso per legge a nessuno, se non ai militari, di indossare nulla che sia “camouflage”. Questa texture mimetica é prerogativa dei soldati, se non lo sei e la indossi con una maglietta, un pantaloncino o altro, rischi la galera.

Non per niente, solo dopo aver appreso quest’informazione collegai il perché, al mio arrivo, la sicurezza dell’aeroporto storse il naso e mi domandò se fossi un soldato, a causa del mio zaino mimetico!
Paradossalmente, Babafemi, il sergente e l’uomo al comando, era quello più noncurante della divisa. Sempre in canottiera e ciabatte, anche nelle nostre uscite al di fuori dal cordone di sicurezza! Cristiano, con due figli. Ingegnere meccanico dell’esercito.

Piccola parentesi: in Nigeria sono tutti ingegneri! Qualsiasi sia la loro mansione aggiungono sempre quella qualifica.

Un semplice meccanico risulta essere dunque un ingegnere meccanico.

Il secondo al comando era Shitu, second commandant.

Musulmano, due mogli e tre figli. Era entrato nelle forze armate per una posizione sicura, uno stipendio certo e il potere di contrattazione sulla popolazione. Assieme a Lawan recitavano la preghiera ogni giorno. In quanto musulmani, stendevano il loro tappetino in direzione della Mecca. Si lavavano mani, piedi e viso e pregavano 20 minuti, anche durante il servizio di guardia.

Al che, mi sorse una domanda, “ma se vi fosse una guerra in atto, smetterebbero di sparare per ritirarsi nella preghiera?!” Non ho voluto imbastire una discussione, visti i risultati di discussioni precedenti riguardanti la religione. Lawan, il più rilassato del gruppo, era esile e mingherlino, non faceva paura ad una mosca.

Ma non appena ci disse i suoi compiti quando non faceva da balia alla nostra banda d’oibo, gli affibbiammo subito il soprannome di KILLER! Perché dovete sapere che Lawan, nonostante il suo aspetto, era un sicario professionista. Faceva parte di una squadra, la quale, dava la caccia ai delinquenti, e credetemi se vi dico che in Nigeria non vi sono tribunali per certe cose. Le sentenze vengono eseguite sul posto e nella maggior parte dei casi non hanno un bel finale!

 

– BAUDA BALA

 

Il 4* fantastico ha 28 anni, di cui gli ultimi 7 passati nelle forze armate.
Un metro e 85 di muscoli, uniforme sempre impeccabile ed un debole per la figura hollywoodiana del soldato.

Di li a pochi giorni avrebbe ricevuto una promozione: Second Comandant.

La quale avrebbe portato nelle tasche sue e della sua famiglia un po’ di sicurezza economica in più. Moglie e figlia vivevano a Lagos, nel frattempo lui era relegato a far da balia a 4 bianchi.
Una sera, mentre i miei colleghi erano impegnati in altro, potei approfittarne per conoscere meglio la vita di quest’uomo.
Entrato nelle forze armate da giovanissimo, seguendo le orme del padre, Bala aveva già pianificato tutto.

Vent’anni sotto l’Arma e poi a casa.

Mentre parlavamo a tu per tu, traspariva in modo chiaro la fierezza della sua scelta: “difendere e prestare servizio alla sua patria”.
Durante la sua gioventù, passata in un villaggio nel nord, era conosciuto con il nome di Commandó (questa era la sua pronuncia di Commando). Questo nomignolo gli è stato dato poiché era un ragazzo irrequieto e sempre pronto allo scontro. Girava sempre in sella alla sua motocicletta con un machete posto in bella vista sul manubrio.

La gente aveva sempre paura di entrare in contatto con lui, ed il successivo addestramento nell’esercito ,non lo avrebbe aiutato in questo.
Mi disse che durante le tre settimane più dure del training, conobbe l’INFERNO.
Botte, pestaggi, insulti, erano la normalità! Bastoni fracassati sulle spine dorsali mentre faceva flessioni. Piedi distrutti dalle interminabili marce. Per quei pochi che arrivavano alla fine del corso, vi era l”attestato” di soldato nigeriano. Dopo sei mesi di torture, mi disse che non sorrise più per i successivi due anni, l’esercito era riuscito nel suo intento. Se prima aveva degli amici, tornato al suo villaggio nessuno aveva il coraggio di rivolgergli la parola. L’essere emarginato ha radicalmente innescato in lui il desiderio di cambiare e tornare a sorridere. In effetti, nelle due ore passate a chiacchierare assieme, era tutto un sorriso. Contento di parlare della sua vita e delle sue disavventure, i posti che ha visto e degli stati in cui ha prestato servizio. 

Non appena si è sciolto un attimo, mi sono sentito tranquillo nell’avanzare un paio di domande sulle forze armate nigeriane.

Io ponevo le mie interrogazioni, lui mi dava le risposte mentre guardava il canale di stato sulla magnificenza della Nigeria. 

 

<LaSerie>: Bala, qui mi sembra tutto un magna magna (corruption), confermi?! 


<Bala>: Certo, la povertà dilaga, di conseguenza la corruzione la segue a ruota. Senza contare gli stereotipi forniti dall’occidente, che di certo non aiutano. Il successo, le auto di lusso, le belle ragazze nei videoclip musicali, tutto è messo in bella mostra, affinché tu possa ambire a ciò. Di conseguenza, uffici governativi, polizia e istituzioni in generale, sono corrotte e perfino l’esercito lo è.


<LaSerie>: Non c’è nessuno che si ribella? Insomma, se denunciaste le cose forse cambierebbe la situazione, non credi?!


<Bala>: Non é così semplice, avevo dei commilitoni cari amici, hanno fatto domande, si sono rivolti ai superiori, sono finiti sotto terra. Perfino Generali onesti, quindi, con dei gradi impossibili da sotterrare senza destare sospetto, ebbene, destituiti.

Anche il Presidente (Dal 2010 é Goodluck Jonathan), ne é a conoscenza, lui stesso é parte del sistema corruttivo. Come pensi che sia possibile che lo stato più ricco dell’Africa affoghi in una povertà devastante?! Un esempio. Per legge, il mio grado, dovrebbe ricevere 100.000 Naire al mese.

Molto spesso ne ricevo 55.000.
Ma non posso permettermi di domandare: “dové il resto?” Tutt’altro: “Yes Sir, Thanks Sir!”


<LaSerie>: Ma perdonami Bala, visto che questa corruzione dilaga anche nell’esercito, come mai godete di tutta questa rispettabilità?


<Bala>: Bhé é semplice, noi abbiamo visto la morte in faccia.

Siamo letteralmente allenati per uccidere, le altre forze dell’ordine non godono del nostro stesso status. É proprio per questo motivo che la gente ci rispetta, abbiamo vissuto esperienze molto crude, abbiamo visto cose altrettanto pericolose.

Fogne Ti faccio un esempio per farti intendere il grado di rispettabilità e potere, di cui gode un militare in Nigeria. Ovviamente non accadrà mai, ma se per ipotesi
volessi, potr
ei dire ad un passante di farsi un bagno nel canale fognario che sta qui sotto accanto all’hotel, lui ci si tufferebbe dentro, per uscirvi subito dopo con un sorriso stampato in viso. Mentre parliamo, la tv trasmette sempre immagini da ogni confine nigeriano. Tanti popoli, tante culture. Cerimonie di stato e sfilate istituzionali, sempre con in sovrimpressione nell’angolo in alto a destra, la bandiera sventolante verde e bianca. 

Ad un certo punto: “Quella é la First Lady” mormora Bala, indicandomi sullo schermo una signora attorno alla sessantina.
Domani la incontrerai mi dice, verrà qui a Yenegoa, continua, ci sarà un gran movimento.
Si, perché dovete sapere, che la coppia al potere in Nigeria, è proprio originaria di questa zona. Ecco svelato il motivo di tanti cantieri a cielo aperto. Cercano di riqualificare le cose qui nel loro luogo natale.
FirstLady

<LaSerie>: Scusa Bala, toglimi un’altra curiosità. Come mai, tutti i militari che ho visto fino ad ora, sono un patchwork mal assortito di uniformi differenti? Colori e forme tutte diverse tra loro. É molto strana come cosa. In quanto facenti parte dello stesso reparto, quanto meno, dovreste avere tutti la stessa divisa, no? Si sofferma una paio di secondi prima di rispondermi, sorridendo con denti bianchissimi.

<Bala>: In Nigeria una volta passato il corso, diventi un soldato,questo è chiaro. Dovrebbe essere altrettanto normale,ricevere l’equipaggiamento in dotazione, no? Invece, qui nello stato più ricco dell’Africa, l’unica cosa che ricevi, è il fucile d’ordinanza ed una mimetica base, composta da pantalone e maglietta color Kaki. Il resto lo devi acquistare a tue spese. Per esempio, se vieni spedito in missione nel desertoSenegalese, l’uniforme Desert Camouflage, la devi acquistare per conto tuo. Gli scarponi, anche. Pensa che addirittura gli strapp, con il nominativo identificativo, te lo devi acquistare tu. Nello spaccio della caserma; ordini e paghi. ForcesPerfino nel mio caso, che a breve verrò promosso, lo strapp con il mio grado lo devo pagare di tasca mia. Altra piccola chicca, i miei pari, che prestano servizio in Sudan, alla fine della loro leva, che ora non ricordo esattamente di quanto sia, hanno diritto ad un pezzo di terreno. Una netta differenza, e per quanto ami il mio paese, fa incazzare. “Bala”!! Dal corridoio sentiamo chiamare.

Il cambio turno era arrivato, la nostra conversazione finisce con un sorriso reciproco. Il mio, di gratitudine per aver risposto alle domande, ed i suoi denti bianchissimi, come ringraziamento per aver ascoltato il suo sfogo!

 

CONTINUA….STAY TUNED

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